Exploring the fresh ham and all its uses

Prudent Carnivore III:

A Ham For All Seasons

By Shannon Hayes

Shannon Hayes is the host of grassfedcooking.com and the author of The Farmer and the Grill, The Grassfed Gourmet, and forthcoming Radical Homemakers.  She works with her family on Sap Bush Hollow Farm in Upstate New York.

Yesterday, the sun shone brilliantly down on the farm.  This morning, light has still not entered the sky, thunder is growling outside my window, and rain pelts my roof.  Farming is an exercise in hoping for cooperation from nature, and we are reminded daily that we have absolutely no control over how she will play her hand.  Thankfully, we can at least control what’s for dinner…weather permitting.

Rain and sun often dictate our cooking methods, whether we grill outside or roast indoors.  And when making a meat selection at the farmers’ market, it can be hard to choose something that will cover all our bases.  Add to the equation tough economic times, and the choice gets even more difficult. The new challenge customers face is making their meat selections feed as many mouths as possible with the least amount waste.

Allow me to introduce you to the fresh ham.  This is not the prissy cured hunk of pink meat that we serve at Easter.  It is untreated, unadulterated, and at first sight, quite plain. The lowly boneless roast rests quietly on the left side of my display, perpetually upstaged by her glamorous porky sisters, who have been transformed into a sexy line of sausages.  Very often the fresh ham is returned to my cooler at the end of the market, where I carry her back to my own kitchen, much to my family’s delight.  When it comes to frugal eating, the fresh ham reigns supreme.

And, regardless of the weather, she has her place.  As the recipes below demonstrate, the fresh ham can be baked in the oven on the days you need to warm your house, and roasted over a spit or cooked on the grill for those summer evenings when you want to nurse a beer and listen to crickets.  For barbecue fans, it can even be smoked (see my recipe for Maple Bourbon Barbecued Ham in The Farmer and the Grill).

The best part of the fresh ham, however, is working with the leftovers.  They are more marbled than loin or rib roasts, so the meat lends itself to gentle re-warming.  Lay slices in a small Dutch oven, drizzle with a little olive oil or butter (or both), or simply add back any gravy you made previously, and warm it slowly at about 250 degrees until heated through.

If you are the sort who doesn’t like repeating meals twice in the row, the fresh ham will dazzle you with its versatility.  With just the tiniest bit of leftovers, minced fresh ham can be mixed with goat cheese and roasted red peppers, spread over toast points and broiled for scrumptious canapés that make a beautiful appetizer, or pair well with a  salad for a light supper.  Or, for a truly stunning meal, grab some of the green onions that are now in season at the market, and make green onion and pork croquettes.  The recipes for both the canapés and the croquettes appear below, along with a simple recipe for grilling, spit-roasting or oven-roasting a fresh ham.

So go forth bravely to your farm market.  Wear your sunglasses, carry your umbrella in your shopping bag, and fear not….because dinner will be tasty, no matter what.

Rosemary Garlic Pork Roast….For the grill, rotisserie or the oven

Recipe taken from The Farmer and the Grill, by Shannon Hayes, available at www.grassfedcooking.com

4-6 cloves garlic
¼ cup fresh rosemary, stemmed
2 tablespoons coarse salt
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground mustard
1/3 cup olive oil
1 boneless fresh ham, loin or rib pork roast, about 3-5 pounds.

Place the garlic, rosemary, salt, pepper, mustard and olive oil in a food processor and purée to make a paste.  Rub the mixture into the meat, wrap it in plastic, then refrigerate for 2-4 hours.  (Note:  If you’re short on time, you can skip the marinating period and get right to grilling or roasting).  Allow the meat to come to room temperature before cooking.

OVEN METHOD:  Preheat the oven to 325 degrees, place the meat in a roasting pan, insert a meat thermometer, and roast about 20-22 minutes per pound, until the internal temperature registers between 145 and 148 degrees.  Allow the meat to rest 10 minutes on the counter, covered loosely with foil, prior to carving.

ROTISSERIE METHOD:  If using a charcoal grill, build the fire, then rake the hot coals into 2 rows, each 4 inches from where the spit will turn.  Cover the grill and allow it to warm to about 325 degrees. Place a drip pan in the center.

If using a gas grill, preheat the front and rear burners on high until the cooking chamber is 325 degrees.  Set the drip pan over the center burner.

Put your rotisserie attachment in place.  Skewer the roast on the spit and turn on the motor.  Cover the grill and allow the meat to roast approximately 20-22 minutes per pound, maintaining the cooking chamber between 300 and 350 degrees.  Remove the meat from the spit once the internal temperature is between 140 and 150 degrees.  Tent loosely with foil and allow the meat to rest 10 minutes before carving.  The internal temperature will rise another 5-10 minutes during this time.

GRILLING METHOD:  Light one side of the grill and put the lid in place.  Allow the cooking chamber to come up to 325 degrees.  Scrape the grill clean.  Set a drip pan below where the meat will sit, on the cool side of the grate.  Lay the roast on the grill above the drip pan.  (Alternatively, put the roast in a cast-iron skillet, but still place it on the cool side of the grill.)  Close the grill.  If using charcoal, turn the lid so the vents are open over the meat.  Monitor the grill temperature, ensuring that it stays between 300 and 350 degrees.  Add additional coals, or adjust the vents and dials as necessary.  Allow the meat to cook for roughly 20-22 minutes per pound, or until an internal meat thermometer registers 140-150 degrees.  Remove the meat from the grill and tent loosely with foil while it rests for 5-10 minutes.

AND NOW, FOR THE BEST PART….THE LEFTOVERS!

Green Onion and Pork Croquettes
Serves 8 as an appetizer, or four as a meal.

1 cup finely diced leftover cooked pork
2 tablespoons butter
5 tablespoons flour
2 cups rich meat stock
1 bunch minced green onions
1 egg, beaten
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup bread crumbs
Lard or tallow or another preferred oil for frying

Sauté the green onions in butter, then blend in enough flour to make a roux.  Add the stock and simmer about 5 minutes, stirring often, until thickened.  Turn off the heat.  Stir in the meat, season to taste with salt and pepper, then allow the mixture to rest for 5 minutes.  This enables the meat to be well penetrated by the flavors in the sauce.  Pour everything into a bowl and chill for 1-2 hours, until firm.

Shape the cold meat mixture into balls about the size of an egg, and partially flatten.  Dip each ball into the beaten egg, then roll in breadcrumbs.  Fry in one inch of oil, tallow or lard over medium heat until browned, about 5 minutes per side. Eat alone, or top with a black pepper and onion sauce (recipe follows).

Black Pepper and Onion Sauce
4 tablespoons green onions or shallots
2 tablespoons butter, lard or tallow
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup rich meat stock
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1-2 dashes cayenne pepper

Sauté the shallots or green onions in the butter or fat in a non-reactive skillet over a medium flame.  Once clear, pour in the red wine and meat stock.  Simmer until the volume is reduce by half.  Stir in the black pepper and cayenne, to taste.  Serve over the croquettes.

Canapés of Goat Cheese, Roasted Red Pepper and Fresh Pork
Serves 8 as an appetizer, or four for a light supper when paired with a salad.

1 cup leftover cooked pork, finely diced
½ cup diced roasted red pepper
1-2 small cloves crushed garlic
½ teaspoon coarse salt
½ teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
4 ounces plain goat cheese
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
16 pieces of good quality bread, cut into three inch squares, triangles or rounds, lightly toasted, crusts removed (unless you are working with a baguette).

Thoroughly combine the first 8 ingredients.  If time allows, let the mixture sit in the fridge, covered, for 1-2 hours, until the flavors meld.  When ready to serve, preheat the broiler.  Spread 1-2 tablespoons of the topping on each slice of bread.  Drizzle with olive oil, and broil about 5 minutes, until the mixture browns lightly on top.  Serve immediately.